Thursday, March 6, 2008

German Three-Stars?

All I remember in Germany were Benzs, BMWs, bratwurst and beer.....

See the NY Times today...

Fine Dining Takes Small but Stellar Strides in Germany
Published: March 6, 2008
There has been a surprising development in the land of sauerkraut and sausage: Germany now has more Michelin three-star restaurants — nine — than any other European country except France.

Wednesday, February 27, 2008

Blowfish: A Bunch of Hot Air?



I had dinner with my friend Chris at Blowfish Sushi ("sushi to die for") last night. My no reservations policy worked again, but instead of getting a table, we ended up at the sushi bar. Unlike many sushi bars where you interact with the chefs, these guys looked intent on their work and for being so close, they still felt far away. Interestingly, last time Chris and I ate sushi it was Ebisu and we were at the sushi bar which was fun and entertaining. Here, it was a seran plastic wrap fest. Knives went flying as rice and seaweed were rolled together in plastic wrap and sliced up accordingly. Unlike Ebisu, with its careful attention to detail and relaxation, the Blowfish sushi chefs were quick, somewhat sloppy and high-volume.

Yet, it still took a long time before each round of sushi or rolls to come out. Unlike Ebisu's comfortable atmosphere and attention to subtle taste variation, Blowfish's emphasis is on atmosphere. In this case, women with bob-haircuts, darkly clad men who were scruffy, thudding and thumping music and orchids predominated the concrete-floor space infused with lots of manga comics.

The dark, heavy, almost brooding atmosphere pervaded into the rolls that we got. All of them, were essentially the same. Some fried variations of tempura bits, salmon, tuna and all kinds of other great-sounding fish were infused with wasabi and seaweed.

So, as my friend Chris likes to call people on their BS this was kind of apt, as Blowfish Sushi.... Anyway, a fun scene that, for a Tuesday night, was packed. The sushi tasted better than average sushi, but if it's subtle flavors your after, then take a pass here.

Tuesday, February 26, 2008

Aqua for lunch, a great treat with suprises....


I’ve walked by Aqua a thousand times before always thinking that I should go there and eat. Today, of all random days, was the day I decided to treat myself to it. From the outside, Aqua has big windows overlooking California Street with its tourists, Cable Cars and Financial District folk.

It looked to be California sheik meets Tuscany. There are $3000 bottles of champagne from 1966 on the menu nestled up against a $2800 bottle of French white wine. Yet, with all that, the power of Aqua (in my mind) is its ability to harken back to tastes and flavors from my childhood. I went in, at noon, without a reservation and was seated in less than 5 minutes (maybe it’s because I was in a shirt and tie, but so was everyone else).

I ordered the business lunch that was $36 and included Lobster Bisque, an Atlantic Cod and a dessert - chef’s choice. A Himachi Avocado Salad and a Chicken Pollard with potato spaghetti tempted me, next time I thought to myself. To pair, I ordered a nice Austrian Riesling (a Gruner Veltliner). The wine was chilled just right, buttery and fruity at once and looked like a perfect white wine.

The staff whirled by with plates and plates of great-looking food with people at the other tables smiling when they arrived. I was ready to partake. This was turning into an event. And, because I was dining by myself, I was really attentive to what was going on and ready for what was to come.

First, a three-piece amuse bouché. An Ahi Tuna Coquette with a pepper sauce base (flakey, rich, light, perfect), a Potato Leek White Soup (this was the winner that, was, strangely, just like something my dad makes) and a Himachi Tartar (not so good, warm, strong, but fishy).

That was quickly followed bread accompanied by goat milk butter with sea salt (delicious, you could taste the sea, yar!) and cow’s milk butter (too grassy for me).

And then, the Lobster Bisque. This was a surprise.

The bowl was empty but for basil shavings, two shaved pieces of Maine lobster. The liquid appeared in a brass pan and was infused with Eggplant caviar and the waiter poured it in to the bowl. The liquid, instead of being heavy and thick was almost water-like but the flavor was complete and rich. Without the heaviness of a cream-based stock, the bisque took on a new light, yet concentrated air. Again, the soup brought back and evoked childhood flavors by being so simple, yet so good. Maybe I was being more receptive than usual, but there was something about these dishes, created naturally from fresh ingredients I presume that evoked very old flavors and sensations that I haven’t had in years.

The main dish, an Atlantic Cod came on a bed of fava beans, and citrus sauce with a potato Napoleon draped over all of that. To be honest, it was warm, but salty. The texture of the fish was soft, buttery and the taste was, well, not very fishy. That said, the overwhelming taste was salt. At one point, the waiter asked me if it was everything I hoped for and if it stood up to the Riesling. I said, no, not really, but that I liked it but that it was lacking in the flavors you would expect. Texturally, it was a great play on soft and super soft with the beans and the flakey fish. Taste wise, though, it fell salt-flat.

The waiter, undeterred, thanked me for the comments and handled it well. I ended up getting a free glass of champagne later on in the meal that made me happy, if not buzzed.

Finally, a dessert, a Rum-Soaked Cake with a Pineapple chip and bits of cream on top. Again, it was sweet, intense but light. How do they do that balance thing? What’s more though, it reminded me of a dessert my neighbors made when I was a kid. After that, there was a yet another petite plate of desserts that were intense and balanced as well. And that free glass of champagne too. I left a happy and full customer.

Overall, Aqua was a treat. Despite the fact that everyone is decked out, business lunches are going on all around you, the room softens it all quite a bit. Sure, you get the feeling that you’re in the big city when you eat here. But, with that said, if you pay attention, the food, at least for me, it harkens back to simple, base and good tastes from way back when.

Perhaps, I never had these tastes before and I’m only imagining it and attributing it as such. But, I think there’s something to be said for a place that presents itself so well, the staff was professional, smartly dressed and attentive and yet can be so grounded.

Great.

Nopa's Great Truffle Dip

Instead of getting fried chicken one rainy night in San Francisco, the bf and I opted to go to Nopa. Throngs of smartly-dressed quasi-hipsters flanked the hostess desk as we got there. No way we'd get a table any time soon I thought. That said, we were nice, pleasantly goofy and apparently kind enough to be seated in less than 5 minutes of arriving.

We were seated centrally next to a table for four that was placed too closely to us. Later in the evening this social distance from the next table proved to work, good conversation with the guys sitting next to us, but in the end also a little too close as the point of social awkwardness, i.e., where each dining party should turn back to their dining companions passed us by.

Anyway, the evening started with an amuse bouche of a small piece of toast smeared with goat cheese. It was, as you would expect, a piece of toast with goat cheese. We ordered a warm bowl/plate with olives that, in the end, proved to be too large for two people to eat. The bf got the roast chicken while I opted for a hamburger and fries.

A hamburger you ask? I figured that a place that has confits, fish from exotic oceans and absinthe drinks on their menu (apparently, these drinks are popular, but I thought it tasted too much like liquorish) would make a mean hamburger. I was right, but what was really surprising was the French Fry dip which was infused with truffles. The hamburger came on a fluffy bun that was oiled just perfectly. The meat good, the dipping sauce made the burger feel earthy, but yet, despite being a burger, it was all very light. Of course, I didn’t finish it all.

The bf’s half-roast chicken was a bit dry in parts, but overall the flavor was rich and there was a finish that is the hallmark of good quality meat. Not too salty, not to dry, balanced nicely. The vegetable mash was an attempt to lighten the overt heaviness of the chicken and worked pretty well. Keep in mind that I’m not a fan of vegetables either!

Finally, as the dinner conversation with our neighbors grew more awkward, we ordered desert, Chocolate Covered Churros, which was disappointing. Too much cinnamon and not crispy enough. Nopa is a great place and has good food.

Overall, the company was fun and the night a good one with the surprise of the truffle French Fries. One surprise is better than none.

Thursday, February 21, 2008

There is such a thing as a Free (Mediocre) Lunch

Breaking up the monotony of San Francisco Financial District lunches can be a hard thing to do. You have your hole-in-the-wall sandwich/curry/wrap/burrito joints, you have your posh lunches like Aqua, you can always bring leftovers, but to break the monotony it's always nice. So, on Kearny Street a new chain lcation (how did that ever get approved in San Francisco is anyone's guess) grand-opened with free food, balloons, long lines and cake. Yes, cake.

The "Teriyaki Experience" with such far flung locations as Waterloo, Iowa and Hayward, California is based in Toronto but opened a fast food teriyaki grill in the Financial District here. While I didn't initially get a "VIP" font-ladened glossy coupon, they were plentiful and a dapper-looking couple gave me theirs. The "Director of North American Operations," a tired-looking barrel-chested man, armed me with an array of other coupons for noodles, wraps and dumplings after seeing that I was coupon-deprived.

The coupon, it turns out, was only good for the teriyaki chicken, which is fine be me. After wading through the throngs of business-casual types, I got my bowl (which, contrary to San Francisco law came in a sturdy plastic bowl and bag) and started to munch. Hot, bland, and light, but typical of what I expected. The vegetables crisp, the teriyaki sauce from bottle and the cost would have been $7.00. Ouch. That said, in his repetition of marketing points, Mr. Director pointed out that there was no butter or fat used. Indeed, the army of 5 teriyaki grillers only splashed water and a bit of soy sauce on the volumes of chicken and bean sprouts beneath their spatulas.

What's more interesting is that the whole experience felt like it was from The Apprentice. Highly marketed with balloons, glossy fliers and long lines of people. A valiant attempt at "buzz." That said, will it be like this in a month? Would folks in Waterloo and Hayward swarm to it when they have other options? Not sure. But one thing that I took away from the mob scene there was that opening a restaurant, no matter chain or posh, is a hard, hard labor-intensive experience. In this case, however, they would be wise to focus on the food first.

Assessment: Heavy on marketing, light on taste.

Wednesday, January 23, 2008

Picky Eater Newsstory


My friend Cindy works for the SF Chronicle's food section and asked me if I knew of any couples where the eating tastes of each diverged from each other's significantly. Knowing that I wouldn't qualify, I did think of two close friends, who, after a few rounds of introductory emails, described themselves as:

"a 31-yr old white "vegequarian" (veggies and seafood) from a quasi-hippie background in Santa Cruz, and my husband is a 32-yr old Japanese-filipino-spanish meat lover from Hawaii who thinks that Spam qualifies as food."

Pretty divergent by my book. But, despite that clear divergence, they've made it work to 11 years. Just don't ask them to make fried rice for you as that's a whole other story.

Tuesday, January 22, 2008

1300 Fillmore in San Francisco is Number 1 for Fried Chicken


As part of my Fried Chicken Quest and given my affinity for all thing’s truffle, the bf, and two of our good friends, Marc and John, visited 1300 Fillmore. 1300 opened in November as part of the new Yoshi’s complex in the Fillmore District in San Francisco.

Finally, in San Francisco, there is a space that not only features great food but also some LA-like production value in terms of creating a space you feel important in too. The space is big, but dark and intimate. A relatively spacious dining room is filled with great photos of jazz musicians, upside-down black-lampshaded lamp fixtures, mismatched chairs and, most sexily, live jazz gives the place a distinctly non-San Francisco feel. Apart from a initially curt bartender, the service was great, attentive, friendly and fast.

Because we got there early, the bf and I had a drink at the bar before Marc and Jon arrived. While at the bar he had white wine and I had a very fruity Berry Jazzatini. We spoiled our appetites by having Shrimp Hushpuppies, which we picked from an array of appetizers that included a bacon egg-salad and foie gras.

We had cornbread to start with a choice of Pepper Jelly (you could taste the pepper skins) or Honey Truffle Butter (which did not taste like honey nor truffles). The cornbread – perefectlyHushpuppies balanced, although a little moister would be nice. But, before we knew it, the arrived. Warm, crunchy, and filling.

After Marc and John arrived we were seated. While we were next to the kitchen it wasn’t noisy or distracting. It was quiet enough to hear that the couple dining behind us were celebrating their 30th anniversary. (Collectively, we “awwwd.”)

For appetizers, we got the Shrimp Hushpuppies (by this point, I was saying, “they’re good, fried, and shrimp, we get it already,” as it was too much of a good thing). We also go a Poached Egg Salad with bacon (could have used a little more lettuce) and Marc, being allergic to shellfish, got the Arugilla salad.

For entries, we got two portions of the Fried Chicken with Truffled Mashed Potatoes (uh-mazing), the Pork Chop and the Maple Syrup Seared Pork Shortribs.

For the Fried Chicken, the bed of truffled mash potatoes infused the chicken, which was tasty itself, moist and battered in a well-seasoned batter. The batter was even better because the chicken’s shape allowed extra pools of batter to glam together that created extra pockets of goodness.

The Shortrib was on a bed of chived mashed potatoes, which were well-seasoned, earthy and, well, tasted like vegetables. The Shortrib was great by all of our palettes. Glazed in or cooked with maple syrup, the pork shortribs were to tender to the touch and flavorful.

The Porkchop, which made John close his eyes in appreciation, was cooked very well. Served medium, the chop wasn’t tough nor dry, but rather moist and warm. Perfectly balanced between being too chewy and too tough.

Dessert was a small plate of checkered desserts – a Penite Four (how do you spell that?) two scoops of sorbet (Peach and Meyer Lemon – very, very tart) a small pecan tartlet, a double chocolate cookie, pomegranate seeds, and other goodies. That dessert was, however, outflanked by the Chocolate-filled Beignets. Beignets have a special place in my heart given the bf asked me about beignets when we first met, but we’ve seldom had good ones. 1300’s were great. Warm, fluffy and served with a bowl of chocolate sauce and an “Espresso Soda” (which the coffee-drinkers loved) these were a great way to end the meal.

And, today, even as leftovers (which were attentively labeled by our waitress), the chicken retained its moisture, and, if I’m not mistaken, tastes even better today. The pork is still good, but the chicken still takes the prize.

All in all 1300 is a winner, and currently, it’s number in my Fried Chicken Quest, knocking the Blue Jay cafe and Bake Sale Betty's (which is an admittedly different creature) out of that spot.

Homemade Begalwiches with Prosciutto and Wilted Basil

What better place to start then with breakfast. This morning the bf and I got up and I managed to make him a cup of fresh ground coffee in a cheapola coffeemaker my mom got us for the hols. This is a feat considering that I don't drink coffee, much less know where the difference between having coffee-essence water and coffee as thick as tar is. Luckily, the bf said it was okay.

Unlike my usual bowl of Crackling Oat Bran, which I have 5 boxes purchased at half the price from Target, I had the thought of making breakfast. We had basil, eggs, and prosciutto left over from home-made pizza night and mini-bagels hiding out in my freezer (who'd a thunk you could store bread products in the freezer?)

The thought (and recipe): Toasted Egg Begalwiches with Semi-seared Prosciutto and Wilted Basil with Sliced Fresh Tomato:

2 eggs (brown, cage-free so you can feel ethical), break and beat. A tiny pinch of Kosher Salt - you could probably skip this because the prosciutto is salty.

Heat the skillet for the eggs, wait and then add a little olive oil to coat the bottom of the pan (hot pan, cold oil). Toast the bagels. while the egg skillet is heating. Heat another skillet for the prosciutto. Pour the eggs on, and let it sit for a bit, flipping over, remove from heat, but the eggs in the pan. At this point, I place a few fresh 5 - 10 whole basil leaves (picked from the stem) in the pan to let them wilt slightly.

Meanwhile the prosciutto cooks and starts to look like bacon. I turn off the heat when I get to my desired crispiness, in this case about 2 - 5 minutes. I move the basil leaves over to empty space in the prosciutto skillet and that finishes the wilting. By now, the bagels are done and I don't butter them, but instead fold the eggs over themselves and put over the bagel, put the prosciutto on top and then add the wilted basil leaves on top. If you have small roma tomatoes I add them on top too as the moisture from the tomatoes seeps into the wilted basil to reinviograte them and the basil taste, in my mind, is more concentrated.

After this was all done, I was pretty proud of myself as the bf liked it, it took less than 5 minutes to do (if you're quick) and instead of my cereal (which I still swear by) I had something warm. I accomplished a meal before I even got to work.

I've noticed my day has gone better too and I haven't been hungry at 11 a.n. Don't they say something about carbo/protein loading at breakfast?